Stray - the world tour.

I am travelling around the world. For over seven years now I've been sending out intermittent group mailers to a growing list of friends and fellow travellers, this is that. In blog form.

Wednesday, March 24, 2004

stray 23March04 - Part three of four.

I have arrived, I am home. My destination is in every step.


I went to a dowsing workshop and that’s a weird story too. Guy in
Nelson
was like, I do dowsing. I was like, I’d like to learn that. He was
like,
alright but we both forgot about it. Mate of my father’s we stayed with
in
Golden Bay had a dowsing book on his bookshelf, I flipped through it.
Driving to a street party in Takaka that night we passed an old shed
and
Alan (my father) was like, got your file? I was like, sweet, and
retrieved
my trusty Leatherman (tm). Alan cut two bits of number eight fencing
wire
(classic) and bent them into dowsing rods. I hid a twenty cent piece in
the grass and he found it first try. Incredible really. Went to the
party,
watching an act and I’m all like, I want to practice dowsing tomorrow.
Woman passing at that exact moment was like, dowsing? What? I’m off to
a
dowsing workshop tomorrow morning, leaving now, staying in Nelson,
wanna
come? I was like how much? And she was all, sixty bucks. I did the
thing
where you whistle backwards but Alan was like, I’ll pay. Sweet, I was
like. Went (would’ve been a spit in the eye of serendipity not to),
stayed
with woman who turned out to be an old friend of the family’s,
attended,
dowsed.
Actually the workshop, which was like nine hours long, turned out not
to
be too much about dowsing and more about how the use of it pertains to
global energy line flows and Maori migration patterns and myth. Very
interesting and we did learn the basics (I was the only one there with
my
own rods) and I sort of got it to work, maybe.
I haven’t really stuck with it, but it’s a good skill to maybe hone
someday.

And more weirdness, but this time bad stuff. I had a dream my sister
showed up and said something had happened but it would be ok. I got a
bit
freaked out. Then I couldn’t get hold of her for a week and a half and
ended up ringing from here to make sure everything was ok. It was,
nothing
had happened. Yet.
Mid writing this I get an email from her saying she’s hit a car and
taken
a header off her bike, emergency room but nothing too serious.
Ok, let me just say this for the record; I’m not saying I can, based on
one event, but I DO NOT WANT TO BE ABLE TO TELL THE FUTURE. Seriously.
If
it’s bad stuff its just going to terrify me and if its good I’ll have
been
assuming it was coming anyway. I do not want to be able to tell the
future.
I don’t believe in the existence of the future anyway, so it can just
fuck
right off.

Chapter three,
Being entitled “Such sweet sorrow.”
Or
“The fine art of saying goodbye.”

I think it was Shakespeare. It sounds like something he’d say. Parting
is
such sweet sorrow. That’s exactly what it is. Exactly.
Sorrow because you’re not going to see them for a while, quite possibly
ever, sweet because in that moment everything good you feel for that
person comes to the surface and you realize just how much you actually
care about them.
It is the worst thing about traveling, without a doubt. I think I’ve
mentioned this before but I’ll go through it again. It can get so bad
it
actually prevents a lot of people from traveling at all, and cuts short
many travels of people who find they simply can’t bear being away from
the
people they love. I can understand that, but don’t suffer it so. Its
not
the being away that’s so bad, it’s the build up.
There are a few techniques I use and know of.
The goodbye party. Good because you get to get it all over at once, and
everyone’s drunk. If you miss actually saying goodbye to a few people
(perhaps because you were curled up in the hot water cupboard above the
bathroom) then at least you can assume the goodbye was inferred in the
party itself.
The just suddenly not there anymore trick. Canadian friend of mine was
a
big fan of this, though I think it can be a little harsh. Where’s
Daniel?
I… don’t know. Actually. Now that you mention it I don’t think I’ve
heard
from him in ages. People can get a little hurt if the first they hear
about you suddenly being in another hemisphere is a group email.
The one by one hug and promise of contact through regular writing. Not
a
lot to be said for this one though its almost always what ends up
happening. Email softens it a bit, but it’s a chore.
Take everyone with you. Wouldn’t that be nice. Until you got sick of
them.
The I’ll see you soon. This is a good one. Make mutual plans for months
down the track. Then it’ not really goodbye, just a catch you later
when I
have some more amusing anecdotes. It’s even better if it actually
happens.
So goodbye, all of you, and hello again. Thank god for email. Photos
are
good too. I carry you all with me (well, ok, not all, since it turns
out
some of you on this list I’ve never even met) but you know what I mean
because I know you do it to. We’re travelers all of us.
I have arrived, I am home. My destination is in every step.

Speaking to people recently I’ve decided that Hawaii is somewhere I’d
like
to spend more time. But they weren’t talking about Honolulu. Honolulu
sucks. It was night when I flew in and out and I was only there for one
day, so I didn’t get to see anything much else than the city, and it’s
a
dive. One big mall and housing complex, with a forest of gaudy hotels
for
a little visual variety. And full of Americans, the bad kind. I asked
four
people the time and two completely ignored me. There was a fake
waterfall
out front of one mall, but I guess water in its natural state isn’t
perfect enough, since they’d dyed it bright blue. Little things like
that.
I paid my respects to Pele and found a hostel. I had been expecting a
massive hassle getting through customs, fingerprinting and background
checks but it was actually about the easiest border I’ve ever crossed.
They had the id checking gear set up at passport control but weren’t
using
it. The woman looked at my passport photo, looked at me, asked me to
remove my wooly hat and said ‘this doesn’t look like you’ then waved me
through.
The old dude with the crew cut and handgun was like You got anything to
declare? No. No alcohol, no cigarettes, nothing? No consumables of any
kind. He fixes me with his beady little eye and drawls You sure now?
You
bet. Ok, next.
Spent most of the day sitting under a palm tree on the beach eating
mango
and reading The Beach. Slight irony but it mostly just made me think of
Malaysia.
Left that night for my annoyingly short to be leaving at that hour
flight
to Vancouver. Got a shuttle and made transit friends with an Italian/
Torontan girl who was hoping for a standby. That’s an air travel thing,
not something sordid. We hung out until we got on the plane and then
lost
track due to the seating arrangements and I didn’t see her again.
That’s
what transit friends means.
It was five thirty am local time when I arrived in Vancouver and I had
maybe three hours of sleep in me, needing more. Crossing immigration
was
again no problem and my working holiday visa got stamped in without
them
wanting to see anything like bank statements or other incriminating
documents.
Caught a bus into town and fucked it up a little because I didn’t
realize
it was town and ended up looping all the way out again like Haley’s
comet
and had to swing back and take another run at it. Didn’t cost me as the
nice bus driver lady slipped me a free ticket since I obviously had no
clue about anything.
Hostel. Slept the whole damn
day.

stray 23March04 - Part four of four.

We pledge resistance to the flag.

This is not America.

Vancouver. All right. This is where I am now and it’s a strange strange
place. But then I say that about everywhere.

What does it mean if the whole world is strange? I tried to sign up to
a
web account with the login stranger_in_a_strange_land but it, and every
possible variation on it were already taken. Guess I’m not alone in
feeling like this.

I had been warned about the deries, (derelict, i.e. homeless, beggars,
whatever your phrase may be) that they were everywhere and mad and
aggressive and maybe even a little violent. I don’t think they are,
other
than the everywhere bit. They’re definitely everywhere. Man they are
_Everywhere_ its unbelievable. I’ve been to some poor places before but
nothing _Nothing_ like this.
Apparently it’s a combination of this being about the only place in
Canada
where you won’t freeze to death sleeping outside and being on the major
arterial drug route no pun intended.
They’re not so bad though. Deries are usually ok in a dejected
shuffling
sort of way. Except in Ireland where they growl and stab. I have some
sort
of niggling concern about giving people money, I think I’ll just take
to
carrying some bananas around with me for anyone who wants a handout.
The government here has been shutting down a lot of what support there
was
and apparently over the last five years the number and aggressiveness
of
homeless has been rising steadily.

Six friends of my flat were walking home from a concert last week when
they were confronted by police officers. When one of the girls, a well
known activist and community worker for the poor, asked to see their
badge
numbers the six of them, mostly women, were beaten so badly that four
ended up in hospital with serious head injuries. The police (about five
squad cars had turned up by this point to join in) then charged them
with
resisting arrest and assaulting an officer. Some of them may go to
prison.
This happens here.
I was at a punk gig slash gallery opening (?) a few nights ago and
turned
round to find two cops suddenly standing in front of me. I was like
AAH!!…
I mean… hAA!lo. They smiled at that. They were there to check for
under-
agers. We saw one on the street as we were leaving; he was talking to a
deri. As we passed he said to us You see that? That’s the lowest of the
low. You don’t get any lower than that.
That’s what it’s like.

It’s no Edinburgh, that’s for sure. But then, what is? Not much, maybe
not
anywhere. Vancouver is only a hundred and fifty years old, the downtown
is
only about thirty. It’s too new for my tastes (I’ve been so spoiled of
late) but its ok and the area around it is pretty damn amazing. From
the
little I’ve seen.
Day three caught up with me good mate Sophie, a kiwi/brit I know from
Edinburgh, here studying sculpture. But most of you know Sophie. Her
art
school has notice boards up and I looked through them for flats (must
start saying shared house or whatever they call them here because when
I
say flat, as in flat car or flat cat, people get very addled) and
immediately noticed that nine out of ten of them were too expensive and
just horrible sounding. But number ten was advertising communal food,
arty
stuff and a pet bunny so I gave them a ring.
Went, chatted, got the flat. First and only one I looked at. Dude I
live
with had to camp out in his car for a month before he found a place.
I’m
lucky.

Oh such a wonderful flat. Five others; Jordan, Jonathan and Colleen
study
at the same art school as Sophie, Sarah’s a carer (for the disabled)
and
Mara’s a masseuse which is perfect since my back’s been a little gammy
from sleeping in a too soft bed in Oz and went out on me completely on
jumping out of a tree in Christchurch.
Both Jordan and Jonathan are American, and a little worried about this
draft thing, both have said they’d go to prison as conscientious
objectors. Maybe that’s what’ll happen to them.
Two cats and a rabbit running around which gives it all a pleasantly
surreal farmyard quality. One cat chases the bunny (Matisse). Matisse
chases Jonathan and the other cat. He also likes to chew on power
cables
so we’re always half expecting a muffled pop like the sound of
absentminded innocence being suddenly replaced by a somewhat startled
vacuum, and then to be picking French impressionist out of the
furniture
for weeks. I’ve been reading too much Terry Pratchett.
Broadband wireless Internet. Sweet.

I just got back from a demonstration marking a year since the
occupation
of Iraq. Started with a five hundred or thereabouts strong march
through
downtown to the water. A handful of small and very very loud girls were
trying to keep us chanting, but it didn’t work too well.
It was pretty lame, quite frankly. Marches don’t really get interesting
until they are a) at least five thousand people, or b) we have to start
running for some reason. Edinburgh was good because the Scottish have a
long proud history of rowdy civil disobedience, Spain was good because
although they’re more relaxed they are the loudest people on earth.
We ended up at an actually quite impressively large crowd gathered to
hear
some speakers, one of whom was Noam Chomsky. He’s a good speaker, his
writing makes me want to kill myself.
So he talked and we listened and clapped at all the right times and
then
he finished and everyone went home.
I couldn’t believe it. I literally could not believe that with a crowd
that must’ve been almost twenty thousand people, everyone just quietly
shambled off, being careful to stay on the footpaths and obey all cross
signals.
It was just so… Canadian.
I want to be in a huge planned demonstration that goes horribly wrong.
I
know its counterproductive and more than a little self destructive, but
I
just want to see what its like. I’m writing a movie around it, and the
way
things are going especially in this part of the world it may just be
unavoidable anyway.

Bit the financial bullet and joined in on a day trip down to the
Whistler
ski field. Thing must be six times the size of any field in New
Zealand,
apparently the snow was a little sticky and the best runs were closed
but
I’m not exactly spoiled and ran myself into the ground boarding my
little
ass off. It hurt. It’s been a long time, five summers in a row.
Getting sick is an inherent part of arriving somewhere new, but it
never
fails to piss me off. I’ve been sick for about two weeks now, in fact
all
of Vancouver seems to have been under something greebly since I got
here.
It’s not much more than a technicality now, the last few symptoms with
their fingernails still dug in me that will soon be gone.
Work has yet to materialize but I’ve dropped off ten cds to various
production houses around the city and am hoping something will come of
it
before my rent is due again, yesterday.
I’ve been here a month and have a flat, fire spinning and parties, so
what
if the only thing lacking is main reason I came to this continent in
the
first place?
I need to talk to someone about this film thing. I don’t know how films
get made. I don’t know what directors do. I don’t know how to write for
film or sell it once written. Can I stipulate that part of accepting
the
script is getting me as an assistant director, and what is it they do?
I am telling stories and I love that. They are stories that want to be
told visually, so I will make films of them. This much I know and will
do.
The how is tricky.
I don’t know where I am going but I know how to put one foot in front
of
the other and that’s usually enough.

Plans to drop down into America during the year. We’re right on the
border
here. See you all at Burning Man. Plans to go up north. Mara’s father
has
a sailing boat so there are plans to go sailing up the coast and maybe
kayaking on a lake somewhere. Rock climbing, there’s some good
bouldering
around here in the summer. Plans for a vege garden and we may be moving
the house a little closer to town in May. Not the house itself, of
course,
just everything in it. Duh. Plans for more lounging and by the sounds
of
it a lot more parties.


Aroha nui

Daniel Pagan Connell.

Tuesday, March 23, 2004

Stray 22March04 - Part two of four.

Kill em all and let god sort em out.


The sun in southeastern Australasia is vicious. In Scotland we would
spend
the whole day in the park without sunscreen and I wouldn’t burn, but
the
second you let the southern sun touch your skin you can feel it eating
at
you. We simply don’t have the ozone. This year was the worst on record
in
New Zealand for u.v. (I’ve already commented on how everywhere I go
it’s
the worst something ever) and now you’re supposed to be wearing
sunscreen
_under your clothing._
Its not the end of the world, there’s a lengthy lag on these things as
the
various gases make their way up to the stratosphere, so what we’re
getting
now is the effects of a decade or more ago, and it will probably start
improving again, but its still pretty fucked.
Lets just hope this Pentagon report stating climate change is a bigger
threat to American national security and the economy than terrorism
gets
something moving.

So that was the first thing I noticed in New Zealand, the sun.
It was weird going back to NZ. I had been unsure how it would be
returning
after a very long two point five years, if it would still feel like
home.
It didn’t feel like anything. I had a complete lack of emotional
reaction,
which since I was expecting the opposite made me feel like either I
wasn’t
actually there or had never left in the first place.
This was obviously a little confusing.
A mate I ran into summed it up though; it’s an airport. Transit space.
If
I had been there to stay it would’ve been something else, but since I
was
just passing through it was all one great big departure lounge.
Somewhere
you go to wait for your flight to leave. I’ve had this with many other
countries that were little else than in my way, but never really
noticed
because I wasn’t expecting anything more.
I don’t know what to think the word ‘home’ means anymore.
New Zealand is exactly the same, New Zealand has changed completely.
There are a couple of big issues at the moment, and they all seem based
around those damned Lord of the Rings movies. (The doilies on the
plane’s
headrests said ‘Air New Zealand, official carrier to Middle Earth.’
Grow
up. You’re not cool, you’re an airline. You’re not elves, you don’t
fight
the forces of darkness; you’re a marketing executive in some office
somewhere and apparently a complete escapist. Which is not to say I
didn’t
enjoy the films, of course.)
Everyone is suddenly flocking to NZ, which, especially in the south,
has
always been rather lacking in cultural diversity. Well, they’ve got it
now.
I think it’s a good thing. The way of this century is going to be the
entire world spreading itself thin. Everyone will go everywhere, and
for
once NZ is experiencing global trends at pretty much the same time as
the
rest of the planet.
But I see a time of ugliness coming for New Zealand, as people adjust
to
this. People who aren’t used to seeing a bit of colour around aren’t
going
to like it much and there’s already mutterings about how we should be
more
like Australia. (Concentration camps, sinking boat people and deporting
anyone who comes from a country that’s likely to shoot them when
they’re
sent back.)
It won’t last. Just growing pains. It won’t be much fun, but it’s
necessary and we’ll come out the other side better off. New Zealand has
never had much of a taste for prolonged bigotry.

The other big thing is land prices, and again this is global. A mate of
my
father bought a block of land and house back in the day for eight
thousand
dollars. Last year it was worth eighty thousand. Now it’s worth a
hundred
and fifty thousand. Actually by the time I left I think it had gone up
to
a hundred and eighty. A run-down batch and a little patch of land by
the
beach near Nelson just went to an American investor for one point two
million. It’s out of control. The price of anywhere by the sea or a
lake
is literally doubling every year, though it does seem to be leveling
off
now.
This isn’t going to destroy New Zealand. We’re used to a huge tourist
industry and no one’s going to build their house in the middle of
nowhere,
so towns will just get bigger and cities more crowded. What it does
mean
though is that New Zealander’s are no longer able to own land in New
Zealand. And even if you didn’t want to buy land your rent will go up
so
much if you live somewhere nice that you won’t be able to afford that
either and you’ll have to move somewhere that isn’t nice.
You can’t fault people’s taste for wanting to live somewhere beautiful,
but all you’ll end up with is massive suburbs of gated communities for
the
very rich and the rest of us forced into all the bits that suck.

I made the most of my time in NZ, met up with everyone I know who’s
still
there, which is everybody, and went hitchhiking to all my favorite bits
in
the South Island. Went to my beloved Fjordland, got molested by
sandflies,
had an interesting hitch getting in. Young American guy, owned a semi
auto
assault rifle and two handguns, was a biological engineer for Monsanto.
He
was actually really nice. Way into the ideological uses of genetic
modification, I told him about some of the stuff Monsanto was doing in
India and all the deaths it was causing but he hadn’t heard anything
about
it. Even he thought New Zealand lifting the GE moratorium was a
terrible
idea.
I asked him about his guns, he used to take them hiking. For the bears?
No, people. You ever had to pull one? No. Know anybody who’s had to
pull
one? No.
He was telling me about an expo for non-lethal weaponry he’d been to in
the states. Pepper spray paint ball guns and devices that knock you
unconscious by disrupting your brain with an electromagnetic pulse.
Great.
In Milford sound the weather was nice and I spent the night in my tent
out
on a sandbar, where you’re not supposed to camp but all the department
of
conservation officers go home at night. After dark the sandlfies
wandered
home too and I was able to unzip my little tent and sit out amongst the
dark looming walls of the fjord, the dull thunder of a waterfall
gleaming
like milk across the still, leaden water that surrounded me.
Nice little mental photograph.
Hitched up to Nelson to meet with my father.
I got an email from him recently saying he was looking forward to this
mailer to see all the things we got up to.
I don’t know, usual stuff. Lounging with old hippies in the sun, rock
climbing, ranting about the immateriality of imperceptible timespace
and
how the universe is really just too damn strange to even pretend to
know
what’s going on anymore.

The universe is really just too damn strange for me to even pretend I
know
what’s going on anymore. Some university did an experiment recently. A
machine generated random numbers, these were sealed in an envelope. A
few
days later they sat down and tried to influence the numbers, when they
opened the envelopes they found the numbers were skewed in the way
they’d
been trying for _after they had been generated._
But that’s nothing. Another university wanted to have a séance with
someone who had never existed. They made up a whole life for a
fictitious
character and had historians researching to make sure no one like him
ever
actually lived. Then they had the séance and of course made contact
with
the ghost they had created. That’s kid’s stuff, the bit that makes my
brain hurt is that afterwards records of this guy’s life actually
started
showing up in exactly the way they’d made him up.

Something a bit like this happened to me. When I was hitching to
Fjordland
and back there were a few points when I had spent long enough in a
certain
place and thought, ok, this is all very scenic and everything but I
really
do need to get moving now. Bang, picked up within five minutes. This
happened about five times in a row. Other times I tried predicting how
long it would take for a car to stop, but the results weren’t anything
worth mentioning.
This all comes under manifestation and I really don’t think it’s that
strange anymore.
However, the reason I was hanging around in NZ was for my Canadian work
permit to come through. This was supposed to take two to six weeks and
around week four I was starting to get a little twitchy. Eventually I
just
thought, look, that’s it, enough. This is no way to live, shuffling
round
between friends sofas and not even knowing if this thing’s going to
arrive
at all.
Bang. The next morning the thing arrives.
Getting cars to pull over is one thing, I’d made the decision they were
going to beforehand. But that permit would’ve had to’ve been dropped in
the mail at least a day or two _before_ I decided it was going to do
so.
These things are very hard to get one’s head around and frankly I’ve
given
up trying. The situation is now pushing up against my intellectual
capacity to comprehend it and it’s going to take a smarter person than
me
to make sense of it all. I can live with that. You don’t have to know
how
something works to know how to work it. If I can pull a few tricks
that’s
good enough for me.

much love

Daniel.

Sunday, March 21, 2004

Stray 20March04 - Part one of four.

When fun is outlawed only outlaws will have fun.


I don’t even remember where I was up to with the last one of these, but
I
know it was like three months ago and a lot has happened since then.
So much in fact that I kind of have to treat the writing of it as a
chore
(enjoyable as it is), just plug plug plug away until its all done and
we
are all properly informed. I have forgotten most of what has happened
I’m
sure.
These things can be too long to read properly, so this one comes
serialized.

Christmas day I flew from Western Australia to Brisbane, a plan that
mum
initially vetoed until it became clear that the only flight available
would be last thing at night and I’d still get to do the Christmas
thing.
It was a hundred plus dollars cheaper then going out Boxing Day.
The flight was annoyingly short for one leaving at midnight, longer and
I
would have got some decent sleep, I think I ended up with about three
hours.
I was meant to be picked up from the airport and taken to the Woodford
folk festival, but after an hour of waiting around it was pretty clear
that no one was showing up so I made my own way by series of trains and
a
bus.

This is no good. The last three paragraphs could as easily be replaced
with ‘I made my way to Woodford’ and would contain all the information
and
about as much exiting travel literature. We’ll never get anywhere at
this
rate. I’ll speed it up a little.

Woodford was good.
And immense, and spread out. And hot, and these combined made for a lot
of
walking around at first trying to sort out what was going on and where
I
was supposed to be, and getting very dehydrated in the process.
I had, you may remember, been slung a free ticket by good old Tim to be
part of his street theater… thing. The Woodford Festival Public
Transportation System.
We were a bus. Four people sporting harnesses to lift the plastic
tubing
and canvas bus shell, and a fifth as hostess slash tour guide.
It was beautiful. Everyone loved us. We even ran the occasional night
bus
shepherding punters between the dance tents with a little stereo and my
headlamp set to flash-on-and-off-real-fast-mode hanging from the
ceiling.
Ahhhhhh good evening ladies and gentlemen, this is Bruce Murray your
captain speaking, we are now in our ascent out of ‘the punch bowl’,
I’ll
be taking us out on an easterly heading to our cruising altitude of
twelve
feet. Those of you on the right hand side of the bus will be treated to
a
view of stalls selling water pipes and powdered mushrooms. In the
almost
twice daily event of an emergency you will find exits directly to your
right, your left, by hurling yourself out the front window or assuming
a
reclined position with your arms folded over your chest, allowing the
bus
to pass over you. If an oxygen mask should drop from the ceiling above
you, that’s really fucking weird since we didn’t install any. Smoking
is
encouraged everywhere on the vehicle.
Then Joyce would circulate the cabin handing out damp rags and vomit
bags.

Most of the time, when I wasn’t being the front left wheel and turn
signal, I spent just roaming the festival at random. There was so much
good stuff going on that I could stumble across and drop in on. Saw
some
amazing music and circus acts, met a couple of good people. But not
many,
and if I have a quibble about the whole experience, and I do, its that
the
festival was a little too big. It was practically a city, and so had a
city type vibe. People were in their own space, you didn’t smile and
chat
with every person you passed for the same reason you don’t in town,
there
are just too many of them. Twenty thousand they reckoned.
Or maybe it was just me. The people I did meet were very cool.
Big fire event, not too much politics.
Little things, tents getting hot in the mornings, sudden rains, trips
into
town for food. Just the stuff which isn’t much in the retelling, but if
you were there, and so happy that some of you were, it all made for one
of
those blissful festival type experiences that most of you know all
about
anyway.
Hello Tony, hello Tim. Hello Marnina and Michelle. Wasn’t it good?
Would’ve even been worth paying for.

I left after a week, the day after the paying public wandered off. I’d
stayed an extra night to go to the staff party, which turned out to be
pretty lame, but I was in no hurry. I was hitchhiking to Melbourne
about
two and a half thousand kilometers south.
The first night out was spent in Byron Bay. So many people had told me
go
to Byron Bay, you’ll love it, you’ll stay for days. I actually, as it
turned out, thought the place was an absolute shit hole.
First off there was no hostel accommodation, since it was a Saturday
and
booked solid. I ended up camped in the bush by the beach between the
BEWARE – BROWN SNAKES signs, which if the police had found me would
have
meant a two hundred dollar fine, and if anyone else had would’ve meant
getting robbed. Big big crime problem in Byron.
I spent most of the day hanging out on the beach, which was alright as
the
town is really in a beautiful spot. But it’s expensive, and all the
pubs
have chain link fences around the front to stop the random groups of
drunkards who like to rush in and bash anyone sitting there. There was
nothing going on but drinking and the only ferals I saw were scattered
like colonized natives, hocking beads on street corners to the
occupying
tourist force.
So don’t go there.
The next day my third hitch, which took me seven hours south, was with
the
recently retired second in charge of the entire Australian armed
forces.
Man, that was an interesting ride.
Unfortunately all the really good stuff he could’ve told me was
classified, but I did find out some stuff. Like that the night of the
Bali
bombings (where my cousin was very nearly killed) the American forces
stationed there had been told not to go ashore. They knew it was going
to
happen, they just didn’t tell anyone else.
The Pentagon was hit by a plane, I had thought it maybe wasn’t.
When the main French agent responsible for the bombing of the Rainbow
Warrior in New Zealand was imprisoned he informed the officers that ‘if
I
am not freed within one year my people will be coming to get me.’
Meaning
the French army. He was extradited back to France eleven and a half
months
later.
The popular uprising in Papua New Guinea was put down by the Australian
army (read slaughter) because it risked ozzy mining interests. But
apparently that was common knowledge at the time.
Spent a night camped beside a park in Sydney and one in a suburb of
Canberra. Man is that place dull. Could’ve made it into Melbourne the
next
evening, but didn’t want to show up last thing at night, so camped by
the
side of the motorway surrounded by what I’m certain were trapdoor
spider
holes, and arrived the next morning. It was good hitching. I made good
time and met some good people. Didn’t get rained on, though there was
some
savage heat and flies, but it wasn’t too bad.
Ten days spent in Melbourne passed without much effort. Hooked up with
Michelle again and Naomi, but mostly just chilled in the hostel reading
and drinking with the British and Japanese.

Daniel.