Stray 22March04 - Part two of four.
Kill em all and let god sort em out.
The sun in southeastern Australasia is vicious. In Scotland we would
spend
the whole day in the park without sunscreen and I wouldn’t burn, but
the
second you let the southern sun touch your skin you can feel it eating
at
you. We simply don’t have the ozone. This year was the worst on record
in
New Zealand for u.v. (I’ve already commented on how everywhere I go
it’s
the worst something ever) and now you’re supposed to be wearing
sunscreen
_under your clothing._
Its not the end of the world, there’s a lengthy lag on these things as
the
various gases make their way up to the stratosphere, so what we’re
getting
now is the effects of a decade or more ago, and it will probably start
improving again, but its still pretty fucked.
Lets just hope this Pentagon report stating climate change is a bigger
threat to American national security and the economy than terrorism
gets
something moving.
So that was the first thing I noticed in New Zealand, the sun.
It was weird going back to NZ. I had been unsure how it would be
returning
after a very long two point five years, if it would still feel like
home.
It didn’t feel like anything. I had a complete lack of emotional
reaction,
which since I was expecting the opposite made me feel like either I
wasn’t
actually there or had never left in the first place.
This was obviously a little confusing.
A mate I ran into summed it up though; it’s an airport. Transit space.
If
I had been there to stay it would’ve been something else, but since I
was
just passing through it was all one great big departure lounge.
Somewhere
you go to wait for your flight to leave. I’ve had this with many other
countries that were little else than in my way, but never really
noticed
because I wasn’t expecting anything more.
I don’t know what to think the word ‘home’ means anymore.
New Zealand is exactly the same, New Zealand has changed completely.
There are a couple of big issues at the moment, and they all seem based
around those damned Lord of the Rings movies. (The doilies on the
plane’s
headrests said ‘Air New Zealand, official carrier to Middle Earth.’
Grow
up. You’re not cool, you’re an airline. You’re not elves, you don’t
fight
the forces of darkness; you’re a marketing executive in some office
somewhere and apparently a complete escapist. Which is not to say I
didn’t
enjoy the films, of course.)
Everyone is suddenly flocking to NZ, which, especially in the south,
has
always been rather lacking in cultural diversity. Well, they’ve got it
now.
I think it’s a good thing. The way of this century is going to be the
entire world spreading itself thin. Everyone will go everywhere, and
for
once NZ is experiencing global trends at pretty much the same time as
the
rest of the planet.
But I see a time of ugliness coming for New Zealand, as people adjust
to
this. People who aren’t used to seeing a bit of colour around aren’t
going
to like it much and there’s already mutterings about how we should be
more
like Australia. (Concentration camps, sinking boat people and deporting
anyone who comes from a country that’s likely to shoot them when
they’re
sent back.)
It won’t last. Just growing pains. It won’t be much fun, but it’s
necessary and we’ll come out the other side better off. New Zealand has
never had much of a taste for prolonged bigotry.
The other big thing is land prices, and again this is global. A mate of
my
father bought a block of land and house back in the day for eight
thousand
dollars. Last year it was worth eighty thousand. Now it’s worth a
hundred
and fifty thousand. Actually by the time I left I think it had gone up
to
a hundred and eighty. A run-down batch and a little patch of land by
the
beach near Nelson just went to an American investor for one point two
million. It’s out of control. The price of anywhere by the sea or a
lake
is literally doubling every year, though it does seem to be leveling
off
now.
This isn’t going to destroy New Zealand. We’re used to a huge tourist
industry and no one’s going to build their house in the middle of
nowhere,
so towns will just get bigger and cities more crowded. What it does
mean
though is that New Zealander’s are no longer able to own land in New
Zealand. And even if you didn’t want to buy land your rent will go up
so
much if you live somewhere nice that you won’t be able to afford that
either and you’ll have to move somewhere that isn’t nice.
You can’t fault people’s taste for wanting to live somewhere beautiful,
but all you’ll end up with is massive suburbs of gated communities for
the
very rich and the rest of us forced into all the bits that suck.
I made the most of my time in NZ, met up with everyone I know who’s
still
there, which is everybody, and went hitchhiking to all my favorite bits
in
the South Island. Went to my beloved Fjordland, got molested by
sandflies,
had an interesting hitch getting in. Young American guy, owned a semi
auto
assault rifle and two handguns, was a biological engineer for Monsanto.
He
was actually really nice. Way into the ideological uses of genetic
modification, I told him about some of the stuff Monsanto was doing in
India and all the deaths it was causing but he hadn’t heard anything
about
it. Even he thought New Zealand lifting the GE moratorium was a
terrible
idea.
I asked him about his guns, he used to take them hiking. For the bears?
No, people. You ever had to pull one? No. Know anybody who’s had to
pull
one? No.
He was telling me about an expo for non-lethal weaponry he’d been to in
the states. Pepper spray paint ball guns and devices that knock you
unconscious by disrupting your brain with an electromagnetic pulse.
Great.
In Milford sound the weather was nice and I spent the night in my tent
out
on a sandbar, where you’re not supposed to camp but all the department
of
conservation officers go home at night. After dark the sandlfies
wandered
home too and I was able to unzip my little tent and sit out amongst the
dark looming walls of the fjord, the dull thunder of a waterfall
gleaming
like milk across the still, leaden water that surrounded me.
Nice little mental photograph.
Hitched up to Nelson to meet with my father.
I got an email from him recently saying he was looking forward to this
mailer to see all the things we got up to.
I don’t know, usual stuff. Lounging with old hippies in the sun, rock
climbing, ranting about the immateriality of imperceptible timespace
and
how the universe is really just too damn strange to even pretend to
know
what’s going on anymore.
The universe is really just too damn strange for me to even pretend I
know
what’s going on anymore. Some university did an experiment recently. A
machine generated random numbers, these were sealed in an envelope. A
few
days later they sat down and tried to influence the numbers, when they
opened the envelopes they found the numbers were skewed in the way
they’d
been trying for _after they had been generated._
But that’s nothing. Another university wanted to have a séance with
someone who had never existed. They made up a whole life for a
fictitious
character and had historians researching to make sure no one like him
ever
actually lived. Then they had the séance and of course made contact
with
the ghost they had created. That’s kid’s stuff, the bit that makes my
brain hurt is that afterwards records of this guy’s life actually
started
showing up in exactly the way they’d made him up.
Something a bit like this happened to me. When I was hitching to
Fjordland
and back there were a few points when I had spent long enough in a
certain
place and thought, ok, this is all very scenic and everything but I
really
do need to get moving now. Bang, picked up within five minutes. This
happened about five times in a row. Other times I tried predicting how
long it would take for a car to stop, but the results weren’t anything
worth mentioning.
This all comes under manifestation and I really don’t think it’s that
strange anymore.
However, the reason I was hanging around in NZ was for my Canadian work
permit to come through. This was supposed to take two to six weeks and
around week four I was starting to get a little twitchy. Eventually I
just
thought, look, that’s it, enough. This is no way to live, shuffling
round
between friends sofas and not even knowing if this thing’s going to
arrive
at all.
Bang. The next morning the thing arrives.
Getting cars to pull over is one thing, I’d made the decision they were
going to beforehand. But that permit would’ve had to’ve been dropped in
the mail at least a day or two _before_ I decided it was going to do
so.
These things are very hard to get one’s head around and frankly I’ve
given
up trying. The situation is now pushing up against my intellectual
capacity to comprehend it and it’s going to take a smarter person than
me
to make sense of it all. I can live with that. You don’t have to know
how
something works to know how to work it. If I can pull a few tricks
that’s
good enough for me.
much love
Daniel.
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